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Self-Tapping Carbide Tire Studs

SKU: 4706-4707-4708-4714-4719-4720

Availability: In stock


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Product Description


Ordinary low-budget sheet metal screws bite fine into ice but get ground away quick on paved surfaces. With sharp tips made of corrosion-proof, super hard, abrasion-resistant tungsten carbide, these ingeniously designed studs allow most of the tire’s rubber to be in contact with clear pavement while providing increased traction over mixed snow or ice. The best part is they’re simple to install — the studs self-tap with the included bit that fits any power drill. Just mark your tire, drill each one in and you’re ready to ride. For everyday winter riding, low profile studs (A, B or C) will keep you on the road. The off-road stud (D) is only for off-road / dirt riding. Scooter A & B are for scooters only. If you ride through the winter you’ll have fun, your bike will horribly corrode, and everyone will think you’re crazy. Perfect! Each set comes with an installation bit, instructions and 100 studs (50 per tire).

  • #4706 Low Profile A (8.7 x 12.4mm, Base penetrates tire 10.5mm, tip protrudes from tire 1.9mm)
  • #4707 Low Profile B (8.8 x 15.2mm, Base penetrates tire 12mm, tip protrudes from tire 3.2mm)
  • #4708 Low Profile C (9 x 16.2mm, Base penetrates tire 13.5mm, tip protrudes from tire 2.7mm)
  • #4714 Off Road D (9 x 17.5mm, Base penetrates tire 13.5mm, tip protrudes from tire 4mm)
  • #4719 Scooter A (5.9 x 8.2mm, Base penetrates tire 6mm, tip protrudes from tire 2.2mm)
  • #4720 Scooter B (7.9 x 9.7mm, Base penetrates tire 7.8mm, tip protrudes from tire 1.9mm)
With the vast number of uses, applications, and variables involved, it is not possible for us to provide reliable technical application information, and it would be a disservice to try. We leave that to the true enthusiasts in the various activities. Click here to read Paul Mondor's Review


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Customer Reviews (9)

Worth the costReview by RichardM
This will be my third winter of using these studs. The first two winters I used Heidenau K60 front and rear on my '83 BMW R100RT with Cozy sidecar. The airhead rig was my daily driver and put several thousand miles each winter without a single tire related problem. No flats, no thrown studs. And sfter two winters use, the studs and tires still have plenty of life.

This will be my first year with a Ural Patrol. Heidenau K37 with 53 studs each in the front and rear and about 20 in the sidecar tire. The Ural feels more secure on the road than the BMW as I think it has more weight on the rear tire. We'll see how it affects tire wear.

It would be nice if they were sold in 150 count packages. (Posted on 10/8/14)
2 kits recommended for 1 bike.Review by realgraverobber
Just installed these and did a 5-mile ride home through a mostly-icy city. I think 2 kits are sufficient for one bike, as I just installed 1 kit on 1 bike and it's slipping a bit: VERY SCARY.

I think i will order another kit and hopefully it works as it ought to after that. Wrecking on icy just sounds stuipid, I hope this works. (Posted on 12/24/11)
glue for your tiresReview by SPYKE
I put 78 studs in a set of chen shin street leagal knobbie tires fitted to a Ninja 250. They really are like glue for tires. I confidently cross intersections and climb hills on frozen dirt roads where my truck was slipping and sliding. Bare pavement is like riding on crunchy gravel. After installing the studs I checked for leaks and found none but did have a flat rear tire when i got out of work. Put slime in and all is well again.
SPYKE (Posted on 12/29/10)
Very Impressed - Let's do it again!Review by Dana D
The self-tapping studs and insertion tool make installation a snap. I split 100 studs between a pair of Dunlop D606 mounted on an '08 KLR 650. These are aggressive (street-legal) knobbies with a deep, spread out tread pattern that made it possible to dig in to rather than just mash down snow. Combined with these studs, it was possible to get through a couple inches of fresh snow pretty comfortably - more snow than that and it's time to get out your mushers. On ice and hard-pack the studs work like magic, really dig in. Between daily work commutes and a few out-of-town trips I was on the road almost every day - a few heavy snow storms made riding unsafe. I'm in Conway, NH and during the winter the main roads clear up pretty well with traffic, so I got to ride plenty on pavement, too, where the studs make for a slightly squirrelly, noisy ride. I sounded like some sort of medieval, chainmail dragging creature which really is kind of cool. No danger though, and I got used to it quickly. Probably lost 20 studs over the season, I guess because of all the clear pavement riding (we had a very mild winter '09-'10) but still had plenty of traction. I plan on getting another 100 this year and giving Winter '10-'11 a go. What a blast! (Posted on 9/12/10)
Love'emReview by BadKarmaPa
"04 KLR650 with TKC80 tires. I installed them on a Sunday, the ice storm hit Monday night. There's no way I would have gotten home on my 25 mile commute without them. They don't make riding on ice safe, but they do make it possible. They are now a perminant addition to my winter riding gear. Be carefull out there. Visit for more indepth postings on how well these things work. (Posted on 12/20/09)
I put about 130 studs int...Review by Dean Jackson
I put about 130 studs into a set of new TKC80s on a V-strom. Single stud in all center knobs and next-to-center knobs. Double stud in the center knobs on the rear tire.

Rode 3k miles in Pittsburgh, all winter, only taking one day off the bike when I didn't commute into work on it. No problems at all until the packed snow depth gets deeper than the tread depth, in which case, it's time to drive *very* carefully.

The bike makes a sound like crunching gravel at low speeds and has extra vibration then, but sounds and rides the same above 15 mph. TKC80s reputedly only last 3k miles or so, but these are barely showing any wear after 3k.

Dry road stopping distance increases slightly. Traction increases noticeably on wet/snow/ice, though.

I wish 'stich offered these in quantities less than 100, as 100 studs wasn't enough, and 200 studs was far too many. (Posted on 6/3/09)
Mathew, Sorry the studs c...Review by customerservice
Mathew, Sorry the studs caused problems. If you try the shorter ones in the future, these can be glued in using Loctite 480, 496, or Cyberbond 1008, 1070, or 2243. Instructions for doing this are included with the studs now. Thanks for trying the studs, and for your informative review. (Posted on 9/17/08)
I put 135 off road self t...Review by Jeff Leusman
I put 135 off road self tapping studs in a Kenda Millville (rear) and ~ 100 in a cheap chinese DOT dual sport knobby (front). Both are on my 2007 KTM 250 xc-w. I will need to put more in my rear tire because it is very easy to break loose. The studs went in easily and have worked very well on ice and mixed hard/frozen ground and light snow. Not a single one has come out or even loosened in 4 hours of riding offroad. When comparing the price of pre-studded off road tires or a proper stud gun, these work very well. (Posted on 6/9/07)
After Action Report Tire...Review by Matthew McLaughlin
After Action Report

Tires: Brand New Pirelli MT 60
120/70-17 Front, 160/60-17 Rear
(Super Motard knobbies, about as knobby as you can get for matching tires on 17" rims)

Studs: #4706 Low Profile A

About 70 studs in the rear tire and 55 or 60 in the front tire.

Result: Good grip on ice and snow, a bit of vibration on asphalt, and 18 punctures in 250 miles (three cheers for Stop-N-Go tire plug kits and the Green Slime tire pump held up very nicely). Green slime does not help, since the studs wiggle a little as they hit the ground and the slime works its way out (I have a green racing stripe on the underside of the bike).

For modern radial tires in street bike sizes, the #4706 is just too long, and they continue to work a little deeper as you go down the road (rubber flexing and the like). For street bike sizes, I would try using the studs made for scooters. I likely would have been better off with #4720, though I am sure I would have thrown some of them, as the #4706 studs were slowly working out in some places. Throwing studs is still safer than multiple punctures at highway speeds.

They are easy to install, but I would only recommend putting them in knobbies. If you have tires that have more tread depth than the stud length, you should be okay, but that would be very hard to find with street bike tire sizes (17" front).

My next bike purchase will have wheels large enough in diameter to get real knobbies, which will allow safe use of even longer studs. I will buy more studs then since I am reasonably happy with the basic premise of the studs.

Having just killed a brand new set of tires and about 130 studs in less than 250 miles, I won't be trying them again on a street bike.

If anyone is curios as to why I let it go for 18 punctures, the tires held up fine for the test ride and did not develop real problems until about 150 miles into a trip. Then they very quickly died as the tires ran out of slime. I would highly recommend using them just around town for several hundred miles before taking any trips, just so you will know what to expect.

Matthew (Posted on 3/16/07)

Tire Studding Considerations…

Tires provide traction/friction because at a microscopic level their surface deforms slightly to interlock with irregularities in a road’s surface. Over-simplistically, in cold weather tire rubber gets harder so there's less interlocking going on, which means less traction/friction. "All-season" auto tires typically are made from slightly softer rubber for this reason.

When a stud is added to a tire for winter street riding it needs to be short enough to allow the weight of the vehicle to press as much of the tire's rubber surface surrounding each stud against the road. If the stud is too long this will not happen and one ends up riding on the tips of the studs only -- and this is very bad. There is almost no traction between the carbide tips of the studs and the road surface.

As a tire studded with a short studs rolls, the weight of the vehicle against the road forces the stud upward and into the tire, so most of the tire's tread rubber remains in contact with the road. But because ice is much softer than the road surface, whenever this is encountered the stud is pressed with enough force into the ice surface to chip out a little divot, providing some traction.

Obviously there is an optimum trade-off between how tall a stud should be above the tire’s tread, and how soft the tire’s rubber should be to maximize traction on both surfaces. Most winter tire studs intended for use on paved surfaces seem to protrude about 1/8" (or a little less) above the tire surface. The scooter studs (#4719 and #4720) are about this high, and are what we recommend…but I've actually never built a tire with these studs.

I have made, purchased and ridden on several sets of studded tires, but they've all been for off-road ice and snow riding so the studs have been longer. I've used these studded tires on pavement for a few miles but only riding at slow speeds and very, very cautiously. It's a very uncomfortable feeling, even riding a light weight bike.

The studs that are most suitable for street use are the #4719 and #4720 and in some situations the slightly taller #4706. If I were building a set of tires for winter street riding, I might experiment with mixing these types. Maybe one row of the slightly longer #4706's down the center of the tire, spaced about an inch or two apart surrounded by the shorter studs on either side and in between? The studding arrangement would depend on the tire's tread pattern. And regardless of pattern and stud types I’d ride with caution until learning the gripping characteristics of my newly studded tires.

– Mr. Subjective 12-13


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