The R-3 (Roadcrafter 3) is the third-generation one piece Aerostich suit. It is 100% waterproof and unlined for maximum airflow, yet slips quickly and easily over your street clothes. Its full-length waterproof zipper entry system is fast, and it doesn’t flutter or flap in the wind. Without a lining it wears cooler, and with seam-sealed rainproof zippers you’ll also stay completely dry, even during the wettest conditions.
Each R-3 takes more than an hour longer to manufacture than previous Roadcrafters, but it’s worth it. You’ll enjoy higher levels of performance, comfort, and protection on every ride. And like its predecessor Roadcrafters, the R-3 is constructed of Aerostich’s exclusive American-made mil-spec 500d Cordura® GORE-TEX® fabric. It’s a strong, long-lasting and highly abrasion-resistant material ideal for this use. (Made-in-USA military gear is the other stuff to have this.)
For increased protection there’s a double layer of this fabric across the seat, and added 1000d abrasion-resistant layers covering the vital elbow/shoulder/knee areas. Beneath each of these is a superior energy absorbing system utilizing removable, oversized TF impact armor. Each armor attachment point is adjustable to allow fit to be fine-tuned for comfort and ensure it stays in place for best protection. Separately available hip, spine and chest armor options further increase the R-3’s capabilities.
With its oversize two-slider underarm vents, a two-slider back vent and magnetic clasps to hold open the fold-down dual-height collar, you ride cool and protected at the same time. As temps drop and when precipitation comes you’ll remain cozy and dry, too, because the adjustable Ultrasuede collar fits comfortably around your neck, even with varying base-layers.
Additional features include flap covered hip-side water resistant zippers for fast access to your street pants, a hidden pass-thru port for an electric liner power cord, nine strategically placed everyday-useful pockets, a mini-carabiner helmet holder at the upper chest pocket, a highly water-resistant inner wallet/phone/iPod pocket, fit-adjustable ankle and wrist tabs, articulated knees, fit-adjustable waist tabs and an integrated stretch panel across the lower back. There’s also oversize 3M Scotchlite® reflective areas across the back, chest and ankles to enhance conspicuity in low light conditions.
Over 30 standard color combinations give each R-3 a personalized style, and add-on options include Integrated Boot Raincovers, electrically heated and non-heated Chest Insulation and Impact Pads, an Emergency Medical Info Pocket, and detachable arm and thigh Map and Accessory Pockets.
Six available body colors: black, grey, red, hi-viz lime yellow, tan, or cobalt blue. Six standard abrasion area colors: black, grey, red, hi-viz lime yellow, cobalt blue, or pink. Machine washable. Men’s sizes 34 regular, 36–54 short, regular or long. Women’s sizes 2-20. and Imported.
- ‘Ride More’ Guarantee
- Flash-animated Color Combination Selector
- Custom Alteration Options
- Contrasting Color Thread Option
- Guaranteed-Better-Fit Size Chart
- Accu-Fit Automatic Size Calculator
- Hi-Viz 2.0 Guide
- Roadcrafter Fit and Helpful Hints
- R-3 Owners Guide
- TF Pad Removal and Replacement
- Editorial Review, R-3, Motorcycle.com
- Testimonial, Roadcrafter Light - I Am Riding A Lot More
- Editorial Review, In 'Stiches: Aerostich R-3, City Bike
- Editorial Review, Light The Way: Aerostich R-3 Light, Ultimate Motorcycling
Hassle Free Sizing Exchange
If you happen to need a different size, just return the suit and we'll ship out a replacement free of charge (domestic ground shipments only).
Overall length* difference is 1 1⁄4".
Short to Regular:
Overall length* difference is 3".
Regular to Tall:
Overall length* difference is 2".
* Overall length = collar to ankle
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How to Get a Functional, Comfortable One-Piece Suit Fit:
Start with your height and body length…For a person’s given overall height, some will have longer-bodies-with-shorter-legs, and others have shorter-bodies-with-longer-legs. After a suit is sewn and completed there is no simple or cost-effective way to then make the garment’s torso length (the distance from crotch to collar) shorter or longer. A few specialized alterations can help slightly (see 'ellipse' below), but they are imperfect Band-Aids.
Garage mechanics and others who wear coveralls for a living know a lowish crotch and baggy seat means they’ll be able to raise their arms upward fully and comfortably. When one does this arm-raising to horizontal, the entire torso section of a one-piece suit slides upwards about 1.5". The suit’s bulky shoulder impact armor move it that way. And when you lower your arms, the suit body area should slide back downward smoothly.
Aerostich gear is graded by chest size (38, 40, 42, 44, etc) and each is available in short (S), regular (R) and long (L) versions. If you are borderline height-wise, part-way between an ‘S’ and an ‘R’, go with the longer body length of the ‘R’. And if you are somewhere between an ‘R’ and an ‘L’, go with the longer body of the ‘L’. The extra body length in each size is about 1.3" greater. And if you ride a sport bike, or are an especially active rider and want maximum freedom-of-movement, a slightly longer body sometimes works and feels a bit better.
Leg and sleeve lengths should be adjusted as needed after your body/torso length has been determined. For a comfortable and correct fit with your raised arms out to your side horizontally (both at the same time), you should still have very slight room at the crotch.
The suit’s body, sleeve and leg diameters are exactly the same for each ‘S’, ‘R’ and ‘L’ version of a particular size. For example, the dimensions around your body of the 38S, 38L and 38R are identical. The circumferences are exactly the same.
A riding suit’s leg lengths are correct if, when standing normally, the hem breaks (wrinkles) slightly against the front of your riding boot just above the foot’s arch, and the top edge of the TF knee impact armor cup is positioned near the center of your kneecap. Then, as you sit on your bike, the hem will rise about 1.5” and the knee armor cup will slide upward and center itself over your bent knee.
A riding suit’s sleeves are the correct length if, when standing normally with your arms hanging loosely by your sides, they end about mid-way between your knuckles and your wrist, measured at the center back of your hand. The center of the TF impact armor elbow cup should also be centered on, or very slightly below, your elbow.
Specialized Motorcycle Configuration Considerations:
For comfort with low handle bars and higher positioned rear-set footrests, all one-piece riding suits will fit better with the ‘Extra Forward Rotated Sleeve’ alterations, and may also benefit from an ‘ellipse’ added to the center of the back. In addition, an ‘expanded knee’ alteration is available which provides slightly more space for knee armor when knees are bent more sharply.
For active off-road riding requiring maximum freedom-of-movement and upper-arm ease, underarm ‘V’ gussets may be added to increase upper sleeve diameter and provide extra room across upper chest and shoulder areas.
Learning Your New Roadcrafter Classic or R 3 Suit: Tips and Helpful Hints.
Yes, there is a break in period…Your new suit may feel stiff compared to more familiar types of clothing. You’ll experience improvements in comfort, fit and function the more you ride, from first few miles and onward (nearly indefinitely). All Roadcrafter and R-3 suits continue to improve with added wear and miles.
The best way to put on an R-3 or Roadcrafter Classic suit is to hold it in front of you by it’s ‘chest’,one hand on each side of the fully separated main zipper. Then, lower the garment slightly while moving it slightly to the right and raise your right leg and put it into the right leg of the suit. Next, pull the entire garment upward, release your right hand from the front of the suit and put it into the right sleeve, exactly as you would pull on a jacket. Lastly, your left arm goes into the left sleeve (just where you’d expect) and you are ready to start zipping up (…down, actually).
This does take a bit of practice, but it quickly becomes natural, fast and easy. It’s the best way to get into a one-piece coverall with the least amount of bending and contorting, and the garment also spends the least amount of time dragging on the ground. That’s why it’s two main entry zippers are on the 'inside', instead of the outside (as on work coveralls, where the zippers are on the outside of the legs and the front zipper only goes to the crotch). This extra ease is important because your suit's intended purpose is as an ‘all-in-one’ protection and comfort solution for daily commuting and short-hop A-to-B riding. For when you want better protection than your street clothing provides with less rigmarole than changing into conventional gear.
To more quickly learn the suit’s unusual main zipper, which starts nearly under one's chin,practice in front of a mirror a few times to memorize how to hold and engage the two main zipper sliders. These slider ‘handles’ are captured close together between the knuckles of the first three fingers of your right hand. Your opposite (left) hand then slides the other side of the zipper’s end into both sliders. After being fully inserted, release the two slider handles from between your knuckles and grasp only the lower slider’s handle. Then zip it downward to about your knee. At that point either lift and bend your left leg slightly and complete the zip, or bend over slightly and zip to the bottom. Most suit wearers seldom (or never) use the snap at the bottom of the zipper.
The removable collar hold-open magnets make it easier to ventilate the suit in hot conditions and are especially useful if you ride a motorcycle with a fairing or windshield, but they do have limitations. If your local climate isn't always warm, remove and put the magnets on the side of your tool box or refrigerator. Otherwise you might sometimes end up fighting with them as they try to keep the collar open when you wish to keep it closed.
Your new Aerostich suit will wear perfectly when the weather is nice, and will feel even better when the weather is lousy. You may discover that riding places in bad weather, when nobody else is out riding, is fun. It can be a little extra-satisfying to be on two wheels when everyone else on the road has no idea why you are out there in the first place…much less that you are reasonably comfortable. And if you’ve ever thought some non-riders might have considered you slightly ‘off’ because you enjoyed riding in the first place, wait until you walk into a workplace or grocery store wearing your dripping Aerostich suit after riding there thru a severe rainstorm. No amount of nice friendly smiling on your part will be enough. So enjoy the ride.
Details Make a Difference: Heated Gear Power Cord Port
This hidden cord port is part of all one piece Roadcrafter Classic's and R-3's. It's a pass-thru for a short wire that connects any electrically heated clothing to the outside of the garment. The other side of this pass-thru is behind the lower flapped pocket that is on the left side.
How it works is you position either a coily power cord (#172) or jumper cord (#162) so the end of the cord that connects to the electric garment is dangling out of this port on the inside of the suit. The other end is 'stored' in the pocket that forms behind the lower left flapped pocket on the outside of the suit.
When you are ready to ride somewhere with an electric garment beneath the suit, you first put on the electric garment. Then you put on the suit. Then you connect the power cord or jumper cord to the electric garment. Then you zip the suit closed around you. Then you get on the motorcycle (or stand close to it) and remove the other end of the cord from behind the flapped pocket and plug it into the power on the motorcycle. Then you ride away warm and comfortable.