Elkskin palm for durability and protection, and deerskin in other areas for lightweight, protective durable comfort. A knuckle impact pad adds further protection. Adjustable, gusseted gauntlet seals sleeve cuffs. And the wrist is secured with both an elasticized area and a reversed hook-and-loop strap which pulls towards your body for easier adjusting. For added utility and safety, the left thumb is equipped with a resilient visor squeegee you’ll use more than you think.
There’s an oval shaped second layer of elk sewn across the heel of the palm to provide additional abrasion resistance.
Merino wool lined model features hidden wind blocking fleece across the backside, positioned between the Merino inner and leather outer.
Full and half sizes 8.5-13 (not available in 11.5 or 12.5). Order insulated 1.5-2 sizes larger for correct fit. Natural, Brown/Natural and Black. Black dyed models may bleed slightly when wet.
- Sizing Guide - Glove Fitting - A fast, easy and accurate way to measure. You will always get a precise, comfortable and correct glove fit.
Mr. Subjective on Breaking in New Aerostich Gear
One of the unusual aspects of most Aerostich gear (in today's world of conveniently pre-digested, artificially-aged items) is there's usually a lengthy old fashioned 'break in' period. The time and distance needed varies from a few hundred miles to a few years, depending on how much one rides, and how sensitive the wearer is. It’s also a bit different for different items…boots, gloves, helmets, shirts or riding suits. For me, a new Aerostich suit or jacket feels acceptably comfortable after a few hundred miles and then reaches it's best after a couple of years of use and wear. By the third and forth season it's about perfect (ironically this happens just as similar gear may start feeling worn-out).
That may seem an unusually long time by today's standards, but with much of my most-favorite stuff, from boots to jeans to you-name-it, it's always been this way. We email a newsletter to riders interested in Aerostich products and sales, and a recent one titled "For the Long Ride" has several nice stories about this. You’ll find it here http://www.aerostich.com/long-service-model
Beyond general long-break-in periods and long-service stories, actually breaking in stiff new gear remains very much a pain in the ass: It is uncomfortable, and I always feel a bit more awkward wearing brand-new sparkly gear than well-worn examples. A bit of wear and patina can be almost as important as a product’s design, materials and functionality, partly because it silently tells a useful story which testifies to one’s long experience (without being overly proud of it, though).
It’s always the same. When I was a kid I usually hated the brand-new back-to-school school clothing my mother provided each fall, and being forced to give up old familiar things which were only a bit too small but clearly worn-out. Today I sometimes still feel this way, so even breaking in a brand-new (and much nicer) helmet can be awkward and uncomfortable. It’s odd to complain about this from an economic standpoint but in some ways good ‘new’ and unfamiliar stuff must always be endured for at least a little while before it becomes ‘old’, comfortable and familiar. This is always worth it though, because new things are improved in real ways which matter over the long run. New is good…and new-and-broken-in is even better.
It’s impossible to not prefer (for example) a comparatively newer and lower mileage rental car and many other newer and less-worn things, but for many other things this isn’t such a simple a decision. And even with today's popular pre-aged and faked-old items (like pre-washed jeans, pre-distressed whatevers) simultaneously offering both the worst-of-both-worlds (inauthentic and already partly worn out), and the best of both worlds (experienced-looking and requiring less uncomfortable breaking-in), the choice actually comes down mostly to your perspectives and not the functional qualities of the item. In the end what matters most is finding stuff which best meets your needs. Whatever they are.
Here is an authentic (albeit nonsensical) way to fairly quickly break in your stiff brand-new Aerostich Darien Jacket, pant or riding suit:
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Customer Reviews (46)
- short fingersReview by Sal
My current favorite gloves are the elk skin gauntlets, they fit perfectly in size 12. I was hoping that the size 13 merinos would fit, but my hopes were dashed. The fingers are so short that they fit my wife's hands, and she wears XS or XXS gloves. I'm not kidding, the fingers are about 2/3 the size that they need to be to be proportionate to the body of the glove.
Too bad, as they are beautiful gloves and clearly very well made. Well worth the money, if you have short fingers. (Posted on 12/31/16)
- Great Winter GloveReview by Scoty
- I've tried Knox, Furygan and Klim winter riding gloves...I've ridden with a few Gp race gloves too. I find the more I ride the more I appreciate an old school style glove. These remind me of a warm version of the Vanson Rocket. This was another of my favorite simple gloves they just feel so much better than Japanese gloves with armour plastered everywhere. I try not to crash these days anyway. The other reviews helped me get the sizing spot on first try. I measured 9.5 on the size chart an 11 was perfect. Fit was snug when out of the box, but breaks in with one nice long ride I can fit a silk liner in there and I don't know if they changed the design but the gauntlet fit over any of my Jackets, Winter textile or leather. With a Kanetsu Winter vest and now these I'm set! (Posted on 12/16/16)
- Love These Gloves!Review by Mark
I am beginning to think that any leather product sold by Aerostitch is the best in class. I bought the Combat Touring boots and love them.
After 2 cross-country trips with multiple types of armored riding gloves that eventually began to fail at the stitched seams, I decided to try the Ropers, and Gauntlets. I have reviewed Ropers already, now for these insulated gauntlets.
First, $135 price tag is no issue. The sting of the cost immediately resolves when you slip these babies on. I measured at size 11.5, but went up 1/2 size to 12. I broke these in on a recent coastal ride, with starting temps along the coast in the 50's. I ride a K-1600 and have had problems in the past with cold hands, even with the grip heaters on. With these gloves I had no problems with the cold or wind. The insulation does the trick, and the gauntlets fit easily and nicely over the cuffs of my Tourmaster jacket. The hook and loop closures work neatly and nicely. The padding seems like it will do the trick. I had NO problem with break in and can't imagine getting these wet to do so!
I will from now on haul these gloves along,mix not actually wear them, and switch on and off with my Ropers and Competition Gloves.
Only question is: do I have to treat this leather or not?
I highly recommend this insulated gauntlets! (Posted on 7/8/16)
- Pretty goodReview by Brian
- Like people said about sizing, go ahead and order up 2ish sizes depending on your hand size. Maybe go up 2 solid sizes so they're not too tight. I have gangly skeleton fingers so I ordered to a size 11 and I'm a 9.5 in regular Lee Parks M size. The right hand is a little tighter but they're good enough. I found the threshold of temperature is roughly 34°F. You'll need heated gloves after the fact or at least brush guards to help with wind a little. I'm on a r100gs with no guards and the heated grips are old and provide minute amount of heat. Even on my old r1200gs, the heat didn't help much. Overall I'd say they're decent gloves, but don't count on them for long rides in that cold weather. Lake Shore Drive winds and 34°F had my hands hurting after my 30 minute commute, but my tolerance of cold is non existent. Good quality glove though and only have about 300 miles on them, but it's all been through this tail end of February and March in Chicago which is still no picnic, as Midwesterners are very familiar with the tumuluous weather. (Posted on 3/18/16)
- Have FaithReview by Bill
It seems these grow a size when you break them in, so don't let the first fit scare you off. Go up the 1.5-2 sizes for the insulation, then have a little faith. They're still going to feel tight when you put them on. They will break in fast.
If I hadn't experienced that with the regular Elkskin Ropers before, I probably would have returned these. They felt tight even though I went up a full 2 sizes from the uninsulated gloves I wear daily and love. After I soaked them, it was worse, I could barely get my hands inside them. Then the magic started. Three wears, about five hours total. Now I LOVE them.
I'm a big fan of the gauntlets, they are easy to get on and work well over my Darien and Transit sleeves. The black dye washed out a little bit from the break in wetting -- not onto my hands, but they just don't look so fully black anymore (not anything I care about). (Posted on 12/16/15)
- First Impressions....Review by Bill
My favorite gloves BY FAR are my Elskin Ropers. I started with size 10s but eventually moved down to size 9 because they really do break in and conform to your hand. The 9s fit me like, well, a glove, once broken in.
First, the gauntlets are superb. They really work well with my jacket sleeves (Darien and Transit). Second, I like the knuckle pad and wrist strap. I will almost certainly try the competition ropers in a decade or so when my other regular ones wear out.
What a dilemma on sizing. I went up all of 2 sizes from the gloves I love and got an 11 in these to follow the imperative of avoiding tightness in a winter glove. I might have gotten an 11.5 but that's not made. These 11s feel a bit snug right now out of the box, to the point where I would not buy them if they were your typical ski glove made from nylons and such. However, these are leather and wool, and with my past experience with the plain ropers I'm expecting the magic to happen as they break in and loosen up. It is, though, a leap of faith.
I'm sticking with these, wish me luck. I'm thinking that the 12s would feel better right now but in the end they'll be a little baggy. That's what's going on with my 9 & 10 uninsulated now.
I see lots of folks wrestling with sizes in the comments and can sure see how one might be put off by these on the first try-on. If I can edit this in the future after they break-in, I will update the review. If it helps anyone, I'm a big guy at 6'5" but only average boned. I usually find gloves a little loose in the palm or short in the fingers. I typically go for an XL in your standard vanilla WalMarty type glove, occasionally an L if the cut has long fingers. (Posted on 12/11/15)
- Had to buy for my SonReview by Peter B
Purchased the insulated elk skin gauntlets on my first trip to Aerostich.
They were put to the test on a Trail Ridge Road in Rocky Mountain National Park this last July. Enthusiasts of this road know that snow and sleet at 11000ft is common. I kept reasonably warm , without any glove liners . The temp was below 32F and very wet-- hands stayed dry. The rubber visor squeegee worked very well.
The fit and craftsmanship are great--Aerostich seems to deliver what they promise.
Bought this pair for my son's birthday. He will be pleased. (Posted on 8/14/15)
- I Wanted to Like ThemReview by Steve
d bought these to replace some deerskin lined gloves that had become so loose that I was afraid they'd come off in a slide. I used lined gloves as a bridge between electric and unlined ones, normally 40-60 degrees F.
I was very impressed by the quality and robustness of these. But I found that they constricted my hands to the point that my fingers became number. I thought that would go away as they broke in, but it didn't. Last weekend I had to pull myself out of an exercise at the MSF Advanced Riders' Course because my fingers had become so number that I couldn't shift.
Eventually I figured out that it wasn't the leather that was constricted the blood flow to my fingers, but the lining. And that, of course, doesn't break in or stretch.
So I guess I'm going to use them for the 4 mile commute to work but can't wear them for much more than 30 minutes at a time. Which is very unfortunate. (Posted on 4/27/15)
- Fantastic GlovesReview by Richard
- I compared with the Held Rainstar. Aerostich is a much better fit for me and construction quality is superior. My hands stayed warm while riding in 35 degree weather. Very nice gloves. Glad to see these are US made. (Posted on 3/15/15)
- Elkskin Gauntlet'sReview by richard
- Perfect fit ( don't forget to order a size larger, if getting the insulated version), and very well constructed. Built to last. Rode yesterday in 37 degree weather and did not need to turn on hand grip warmers. (Posted on 11/26/14)
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Mr. Subjective on Insulated Elkskin Roper Gloves
The Insulated Elk Ropers are different than every other winter riding glove on the market. They are not the bulky thick common cold weather glove ski/snowmobile type glove made in Asia, with a textile and cowhide outer and a fleece inner. They are based on the Elk Ropers (our most popular glove) but feature a knit merino wool lining. The gauntlet section is lined with a slippery nylon knit so it's easier to rotate one's wrists a little without also twisting the sleeve of one's jacket. Which is what happens with unlined deer and elk leather gauntlets.
There is a lot of nuance in this glove. In addition to the thumb visor squeegee, there's a windproof fabric across the back of the hand and fingers positioned between the outer leather and the inner merino wool knit. Farther back, the gauntlet tapers out wider than most cold weather gloves, helping it go over sleeves easer. The gauntlet and wrist have Velcro tab/strap closures that are ergonomically reversed for faster easier off-and-on adjustment. The knuckle pad is made of TF 3 (same as our impact armor)... Continue
These gloves are partly deer skin and partly elk skin (palm) because I like how this combination works and feels. They are made in USA, and I did this design over and over to get it the way it is. I bet there were ten or twelve sequentially modified prototypes of this one, over a two year period before I got to this.
Initially they feel a lot different than the common Asian-made winter ski and snowmobile type winter riders gloves. After they break in a little they are very good. The Merino wool liner is warm and long lasting. The leather sort of stretches to fit after a while, just like the Elk Ropers. These are 'old school' riders gloves, designed and sewn to the n'th degree...as much as I and the company that makes them for us could produce.
This ranch glove company and I have been working together for maybe fifteen years. The ranch glove company did not make anything like this at the time we started down this development and design path.
Lastly, they are not the most ultimate warm winter glove. If you commute 10 miles at freeway speeds on 30-45ºf days without hand-guards, they are ideal. For all-day very low temp long-distance riding, electric gloves are still the way to go. And some types of the typical snowmobile-ski types and styles are a bit warmer, too. But none of these are as comfortable and perfect for around-town everyday riding when temp ranges are down in the twenties, thirties and forties.
For my commuting and every day errand and transportation riding, these are still my fave's. Not so bulky, and still comfortably warm. I spray the backsides of mine with a silicone based 'leather water repellant' about once every year. I think the pair I have are now three or four years old. And they are still getting better... I think most cooler weather riders would like them.
“All of the elkskin glove models are cut and sewn on the exact same patterns so they fit similarly from model to model, but there are slight variations from glove to glove because each glove is hand made and each section of elkhide is a little different. A great way to quickly custom-fit a new pair is to fully wet-saturate on a warm day when you know you'll be riding continuously for several hours, then let them dry and conform to the shape of your hands during that ride.
Elkskin and deerskin can be safely washed using warm water and mild soap. This removes accumulated dirt, oils and stains and will help gloves last longer and feel nicer. After rinsing to remove residual soap, gloves should be gently wrung damp and allowed to dry gradually at room temperature. Do not apply direct heat when drying. They shrink slightly but will stretch to fit during wear.”
Which Elk Glove?
Thanks for your question. I wear both versions of the Elk glove. About 90% of the time I grab either the regular or competition Elkskin Ropers. The gauntleted version is also available, but I seldom take it. Probably only because I don’t have a sport bike option like your VFR.
The gauntlet on the unininsulated version of the gauntleted ropers is not lined, so the suede-ish backside of the leather does drag slightly against the sleeve of a textile jacket, but it’s not enough (to me) to be an issue. Also, as the gloves break in the suede-ishness wears a way slightly so the drag seems even less after a few hundred miles.
The gauntleted models are slightly more to deal with in subtle, nuanced ways. There are just ‘more glove’. The fastest and most unconscious pull-on-and-go is the regular roper. You just snap the wrist snap without thinking and go. Perfect for everyday short-hop, on-and-off-the-bike riding. Next fastest/easiest is the competition model. The wrist strap is much more secure than the snap, but it takes a nano-more of consciousness to manipulate it. For all-day riding, though, I usually pick this one. The gauntlet models add another nano-bit of rigamarole, but for a sport bike rider are probably a better option. These shades of ease-of-use distinction are very slight.
When I travel I normally take two pair of gloves -- usually a pair of competition ropers for wear most of the time, and the insulated gauntleted ropers or Luxury Cowhide. And the triple digit raincovers.
Last November I rode around Lake Superior with some friends on Gold Wings. I was riding my unfaired bike which has heated grips, but is without hand guards (wind protectors). Temps every morning were about 30ºf and the high each day was about 45ºf. I had both of the above and switched multiple times for comparison and evaluation. In the end I liked the insulated elk ones slightly better, but it was very close.
Since that trip (and as a result my experiences on it…) we have slightly increased the insulation thickness of the wind barrier hidden within the backside of the hands and fingers on the insulated elk ropers. Before it was a layer of windproof fabric placed between the wool liner and the elkskin outer. Now it’s a layer of thin windproof fleece (fleece laminated to a layer of wind blocking coated fabric).
The elk gloves are sized by glove sizes, not s,m,l, xl, etc. Basically there are twice as many sizes. For example, both a size 9 and a 9.5 are ‘m’ graded. So you end up with a more precise fit. A good-fitting glove is as important as a good-fitting shoe. It’s the only real difference between an ok glove and a great glove.
-- Mr. Subjective
Some additional Notes on Insulated Elk Ropers
You'll immediately notice some of the nuanced control precision of your summer gloves is absent or reduced. You do get used to this, but it's can be little disconcerting at first. Like most insulated types, these gloves may take a little time to mold to the shape of your hand so you'll experience a comfortable and familiar level of dexterity. It took a few days, maybe a week, before I felt good about the pair I am using now.
It's important with all cold weather gloves that they don't fit too tightly. Having insulative air space around fingers is important for warmth and to prevent finger cramping. One doesn't want to be fighting against the glove to be able to have a good grip.
Separately, to speed break in and improve fit, if a warm day happens to come along and you've got a longish ride planned, soak these gloves fully, then wring them out and wear-them-to-fully-dry while riding. After this they'll be molded-to-shape, and fitted to your hands a little more perfectly. Disclosure: I've never tried this with the merino wool insulated ropers but have had good success doing this with several models of regular Aerostich elk gloves, so it should also provide the same good result with the insulated ones.
Lastly, I've treated the backsides of my merino insulated elk gloves with some 'glove proof' brand waterproofing product. Alternatively, I've also sprayed silicone waterproofing sprays on the backsides of elk gloves with pretty good results. Neither treatment makes them waterproof for extended rain exposures, but for commuting, light intermittent rains, mist and road spray situations a water repellent applied to the backside of these gloves makes a difference.