I put 78 studs in a set of chen shin street leagal knobbie tires fitted to a Ninja 250. They really are like glue for tires. I confidently cross intersections and climb hills on frozen dirt roads where my truck was slipping and sliding. Bare pavement is like riding on crunchy gravel. After installing the studs I checked for leaks and found none but did have a flat rear tire when i got out of work. Put slime in and all is well again.
SPYKE (Posted on 12/29/10)
The self-tapping studs and insertion tool make installation a snap. I split 100 studs between a pair of Dunlop D606 mounted on an '08 KLR 650. These are aggressive (street-legal) knobbies with a deep, spread out tread pattern that made it possible to dig in to rather than just mash down snow. Combined with these studs, it was possible to get through a couple inches of fresh snow pretty comfortably - more snow than that and it's time to get out your mushers. On ice and hard-pack the studs work like magic, really dig in. Between daily work commutes and a few out-of-town trips I was on the road almost every day - a few heavy snow storms made riding unsafe. I'm in Conway, NH and during the winter the main roads clear up pretty well with traffic, so I got to ride plenty on pavement, too, where the studs make for a slightly squirrelly, noisy ride. I sounded like some sort of medieval, chainmail dragging creature which really is kind of cool. No danger though, and I got used to it quickly. Probably lost 20 studs over the season, I guess because of all the clear pavement riding (we had a very mild winter '09-'10) but still had plenty of traction. I plan on getting another 100 this year and giving Winter '10-'11 a go. What a blast! (Posted on 9/12/10)
"04 KLR650 with TKC80 tires. I installed them on a Sunday, the ice storm hit Monday night. There's no way I would have gotten home on my 25 mile commute without them. They don't make riding on ice safe, but they do make it possible. They are now a perminant addition to my winter riding gear. Be carefull out there. Visit www.yearroundriders.com for more indepth postings on how well these things work. (Posted on 12/20/09)
I put about 130 studs into a set of new TKC80s on a V-strom. Single stud in all center knobs and next-to-center knobs. Double stud in the center knobs on the rear tire.
Rode 3k miles in Pittsburgh, all winter, only taking one day off the bike when I didn't commute into work on it. No problems at all until the packed snow depth gets deeper than the tread depth, in which case, it's time to drive *very* carefully.
The bike makes a sound like crunching gravel at low speeds and has extra vibration then, but sounds and rides the same above 15 mph. TKC80s reputedly only last 3k miles or so, but these are barely showing any wear after 3k.
Mathew, Sorry the studs caused problems. If you try the shorter ones in the future, these can be glued in using Loctite 480, 496, or Cyberbond 1008, 1070, or 2243. Instructions for doing this are included with the studs now. Thanks for trying the studs, and for your informative review. (Posted on 9/17/08)
I put 135 off road self tapping studs in a Kenda Millville (rear) and ~ 100 in a cheap chinese DOT dual sport knobby (front). Both are on my 2007 KTM 250 xc-w. I will need to put more in my rear tire because it is very easy to break loose. The studs went in easily and have worked very well on ice and mixed hard/frozen ground and light snow. Not a single one has come out or even loosened in 4 hours of riding offroad. When comparing the price of pre-studded off road tires or a proper stud gun, these work very well. (Posted on 6/9/07)
Tires: Brand New Pirelli MT 60
120/70-17 Front, 160/60-17 Rear
(Super Motard knobbies, about as knobby as you can get for matching tires on 17" rims)
Studs: #4706 Low Profile A
About 70 studs in the rear tire and 55 or 60 in the front tire.
Result: Good grip on ice and snow, a bit of vibration on asphalt, and 18 punctures in 250 miles (three cheers for Stop-N-Go tire plug kits and the Green Slime tire pump held up very nicely). Green slime does not help, since the studs wiggle a little as they hit the ground and the slime works its way out (I have a green racing stripe on the underside of the bike).
For modern radial tires in street bike sizes, the #4706 is just too long, and they continue to work a little deeper as you go down the road (rubber flexing and the like). For street bike sizes, I would try using the studs made for scooters. I likely would have been better off with #4720, though I am sure I would have thrown some of them, as the #4706 studs were slowly working out in some places. Throwing studs is still safer than multiple punctures at highway speeds.
They are easy to install, but I would only recommend putting them in knobbies. If you have tires that have more tread depth than the stud length, you should be okay, but that would be very hard to find with street bike tire sizes (17" front).
My next bike purchase will have wheels large enough in diameter to get real knobbies, which will allow safe use of even longer studs. I will buy more studs then since I am reasonably happy with the basic premise of the studs.
Having just killed a brand new set of tires and about 130 studs in less than 250 miles, I won't be trying them again on a street bike.
If anyone is curios as to why I let it go for 18 punctures, the tires held up fine for the test ride and did not develop real problems until about 150 miles into a trip. Then they very quickly died as the tires ran out of slime. I would highly recommend using them just around town for several hundred miles before taking any trips, just so you will know what to expect.